The Science Behind Pure Essential Oils
Insights from Terra Johnson
Essential oils are widely used in skincare for their therapeutic properties, but understanding the science behind these oils is key to maximizing their benefits. Terra Johnson, an expert in essential and botanical oils and former National Product Educator at Pranarom USA shares her in-depth knowledge on how essential oils are sourced, their purity, and the science behind how they interact with the body. This blog explores the intricate details behind essential oils, from sourcing and concentration to absorption and certification.
Sourcing: Transparency and Traceability Are Key
Terra explains that much like food and wine, there has been a growing demand for transparency in the sourcing of essential oils. The only way to ensure that oils are truly organic and pure is through transparent, traceable sourcing. However, most essential oils sold globally are handled by brokers, who blend, combine, or dilute them, often mixing in synthetics to extend their supply.
"More than 90% of the essential oils sold in the world are sold by brokers," Terra points out. "If we can't trace it all the way back to the seed, there's no guarantee of purity."
In some cases, oils are even misrepresented. Terra gives the example of Rose essential oil versus Rose Geranium—two oils often sold interchangeably, despite their different properties and uses. This misrepresentation can lead to skincare formulations with unintended effects.
Purity: The Importance of Organic Certification
The purity of essential oils is what determines their therapeutic efficacy. Terra emphasizes that 100% EcoCert certified organic essential oils are the gold standard for quality. These oils are grown and distilled under optimal conditions to ensure the highest concentration of desired constituents. For instance, harvesting rose petals early in the morning when the dew is still present ensures that the oil extracted retains its full range of therapeutic properties.
One of the more technical issues Terra addresses is gas chromatography testing. While commonly used to verify essential oil quality, it cannot determine whether an oil is organic or synthetic. This means an oil labeled as "pure" or "natural" could still contain synthetic components.
"Gas chromatography testing doesn’t always reveal whether the oil is synthetic, organic, or a blend. It's why direct sourcing and organic certification are so critical," Terra explains.
Concentration: The Potency of Essential Oils
Essential oils are incredibly concentrated, with some requiring massive quantities of plant material for a small yield. For example, Terra highlights that producing just one liter of Rose essential oil requires approximately 5.75 million rose blossoms, and each drop contains the essence of 30 to 60 rose petals. This level of concentration underscores why pure essential oils are so potent—and so costly.
"I've seen a liter of true organic rose oil cost as much as $25,000 from the grower, while some oils are falsely advertised as organic and sold for as low as $300 per liter."
This vast price discrepancy reflects the difference in quality and purity, with the cheaper oils often being diluted or synthetically enhanced.
Absorption: How Essential Oils Interact with the Body
The science of absorption is another key area that Terra breaks down. Essential oils are made up of volatile compounds, primarily carbon-10 molecules. These molecules are lipophilic, meaning they are fat-soluble but behave more like a gas. When inhaled, these molecules are absorbed quickly through the mucosa of the mouth and sinuses, entering the bloodstream through the lungs.
"It takes about 18 seconds for the molecules to enter the bloodstream when applied to the skin," Terra explains. "From there, they are metabolized and expelled by the liver and kidneys, typically within 1 to 24 hours."
The viscosity of essential oils affects how long they remain in the body. For example, oils like vetiver and myrrh are thicker and take longer for the body to metabolize, while lighter oils like lemon and lavender are absorbed and expelled more quickly.
When essential oils are blended with carrier oils such as jojoba or meadowfoam oil, the carrier oil sits on top of the skin, allowing the essential oil to work on the surface of the skin, while also slowing down its absorption into the bloodstream.
Certifications: What to Look For
In an industry where so many oils are misrepresented or blended with synthetics, certifications are critical. Terra notes that EcoCert is the most stringent standard globally for organic certification.
"Even though the American market generally regards certain chemicals as safe, how many of these chemicals can our bodies really take in?" Terra asks.
With consumers becoming more health-conscious and concerned about the chemical load from skincare and body care products, these certifications provide a reliable way to ensure that the essential oils being used are free from harmful additives.
Conclusion:
Understanding the science behind essential oils is crucial for both formulators and consumers. From sourcing and purity to concentration and absorption, every aspect affects how essential oils perform in skincare products. Terra Johnson’s expertise sheds light on the importance of choosing only certified organic essential oils to ensure safety, efficacy, and the therapeutic benefits that only pure, high-quality oils can provide.